Pinball repair tools

Special When Lit! Your 1ST Pinball. Our toolbox is not meant to replace your local hardware store but to give you a place to find Pinball specific tools, parts, and materials. We also offer a unique selection of material for you to make your own parts in case the parts are no longer available or you need a quick repair until the correct parts arrive!

Metal Contact File A stiff file for cleaning high current and tungsten contacts. Light Socket Cleaning Stick A tool for improving the light bulb connection with the socket. Cures some sockets not working and eliminates dull illuminating bulbs. Not recommend for late 's Bally games — due to cheap sockets being used.

We offer a flexible rubber remover which can be used to remove or insert new light bulbs. Fits most size bulbs used in Pinball Machines. It allows the quick removal of PCB Circuit boards using the white stand-offs. Have you ever taken one off without the post getting unscrewed from the playfield?

It's been so popular, we have remade this tool! Pilot Punches have the added benefit of a pilot pin to help center the punch on the roll pin cannot be used on straight pins. Made in USA. To clean those old metal grimy parts! Contact Disc Grease. Contact disc grease used by all the electromechanical game makers , commonly called MBI Grease, has been unavailable for years.

Remember the small leftover tubes you sometimes found in the bottom of a game? We used to purchase in bulk and repackage back in the 's I babied the small amount I had left for my own use.

I finally reached my frustration limit and found someone who would work with me to formulate a substitute which we are calling PBR-Grease. It is formulated as a mechanical and electrical grease which will protect against oxidation and galvanic corrosion. Packaged in handy 1 oz. It still looks the same but smells a bit different; hope you enjoy it as I feel it fills a need.

We offer Temper Blue Spring Steel material for you to make your own. Size used on newer 90's games. Size used on older games. This is the correct thickness for Baseball games. Our collection of rivets used in Pinball Machines. These are Semi-Tubular! BeerSeal For lockdown bars, backboxes, or any other sealing task. Paint Stick For painting recessed areas of coin doors and coin entrance housings.

Threaded Rod Kit. Ever been 25 miles from home Here is a solution This and a bolt cutter found in most crimpers and you can fashion a replacement. Clean it up like new, get all those mechanicals working perfectly and all the switches working just like it came from the factory. Find out how to shop your pinball machine. How to rebuild your electromechanical pinball machine so it works like new.

New cleaning and adjusting information for scoring motors, score reels and steppers. More information…. Just starting out? Here are the basics to owning, using and keeping that pinball machine working. Be sure to put in a new pinball annually. An introduction……. More basic stuff , from removing the pinballs, replacing the battery, testing fuses. Thinking about buying that pinball machine you have always been interested in?

Going to an auction? Craigs List? What to look for? How much to pay? This is what you need to know, and how not to be taken advantage of. Included is a handy checklist to take with you. Already own a pinball machine, but looking for information on converting to LEDs , rebuilding flippers , the correct way to adjust switches , etc.

Fix those old light sockets so that they work. After pre-heating the iron, tin the tip with solder and then wipe off any excess. When done soldering for the day, clean the tip, add solder, wipe off the tip and turn off the iron. Note: Do not clean tips with sandpaper or dip them in flux. Abrasives will remove the tips delicate coatings and the temperature shock from dipping in flux will cause early failure of the tip.

You can use either a wet sponge or the newer type brass tip cleaner see image to right , which is preferred since it does not thermally shock the tip as a sponge does. Manufacturers now use lead-free solder due to environmental and safety regulations. For the hobbyist, leaded solder is still the best choice for a couple of reasons. Lead-free solder melts at a temperature about 40 degrees higher than leaded solder and requires longer dwell times.

Lead-free solder also has a dull finish when applied and is harder to inspect than leaded solder. Solder comes in a variety of mixes for different purposes. There is some advantage to the latter although it is harder to find and more expensive. Always use rosin core solder, which removes oil, dirt and oxidation.

I use a. It has 5 strands of flux instead of one and flows better than single core solder. It can be hard to find though and a quality single core like the one from Kester or MG Chemicals is an acceptable replacement. There are times you will need additional flux in addition to what is provided by the solder. Always use an acid type flux, since it cleans better, and then use a flux remover on the board after soldering.

I recommend the flux remover from MG Chemicals. I use a paste that comes in a syringe, but other choices include a rub-on applicator, liquid or a paste you apply with a brush.